DIY Ceramic Water Filter
Create a low-cost ceramic water filter using locally available clay and organic materials to effectively remove bacteria, parasites, and particulates from drinking water without electricity or chemicals.
DIY Ceramic Water Filter
Overview
Ceramic water filtration represents one of humanity's most elegant solutions to water purification, combining ancient pottery traditions with modern microbiology knowledge. These filters utilize the natural microporous structure of fired ceramics, enhanced with precisely-sized burnout material and antimicrobial treatments, to create an effective barrier against waterborne pathogens without requiring electricity, complex equipment, or ongoing chemical treatments.
This project guides you through creating a household-scale ceramic water filter capable of removing 99-99.9% of bacteria, protozoa, and helminth eggs, along with sediment, turbidity, and some heavy metals from contaminated water sources. The design balances traditional pottery techniques with scientific precision, using materials accessible in most communities worldwide while following principles validated by extensive laboratory and field testing.
The principle behind ceramic filtration is elegantly simple yet profoundly effective: water passes through microscopic pores (0.1-10 microns) in the ceramic material that physically strain out pathogens and particulates while allowing clean water molecules to flow through. The addition of colloidal silver provides a secondary disinfection mechanism that inhibits bacterial growth on the filter surface and enhances pathogen removal efficiency.
Materials & Tools Considerations
The materials for this project focus on accessibility, safety, and effectiveness. Clay serves as the primary structural component, providing strength and durability after firing. The specific type of clay isn't critical—local pottery clay or terracotta works well—but it should be free of contaminants and have good workability. The combustible material (sawdust, rice husks, or coffee grounds) creates the critical micropore network during firing and must be carefully selected for consistent particle size, typically between 0.5-1mm.
The firing process transforms these simple materials into an effective water treatment device by permanently altering the clay's physical structure while burning away the organic material to create precisely-sized micropores. A temperature of 900-950°C is specified for this transformation, achievable in a kiln or carefully managed open fire.
The colloidal silver treatment represents the junction of traditional and modern approaches, significantly enhancing antimicrobial effectiveness while remaining economically and environmentally sustainable. At the recommended concentration (100ppm application resulting in approximately 0.023mg/L in filtered water), silver provides pathogen reduction benefits without health concerns, falling well below the EPA and WHO guidelines for silver in drinking water (0.1mg/L).
Filtration Process Fundamentals
The ceramic water filter purifies water through several complementary mechanisms:
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Physical straining: The microporous ceramic structure (0.1-10 microns) physically blocks bacteria (typically 0.5-10 microns), protozoa and helminths (3-500 microns), and suspended particles.
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Adsorption: The ceramic surface attracts and holds certain contaminants through electrostatic attraction and van der Waals forces.
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Flow path tortuosity: Water follows a complex, winding path through the interconnected pore network, increasing contact time and filtration efficiency.
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Antimicrobial action: Silver ions disrupt cellular processes in bacteria and other microorganisms through multiple mechanisms including cell membrane damage and enzyme inactivation.
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Gravitational settling: The slow flow rate allows heavier particles to settle before reaching the filter element.
The most unique aspect is the "active" micropore network created by the combustible material burnout process. Unlike manufactured filters with uniform pore sizes, these ceramic filters contain a complex network of varied pore sizes, creating an effective filtering matrix that balances flow rate with contaminant removal efficiency. The slight negative charge of the ceramic surface further enhances filtration by attracting positively charged particles and microorganisms.
Expected Results
A properly constructed and maintained ceramic filter provides:
- Removal of 99-99.9% of bacteria including E. coli, Vibrio cholerae, and other pathogens
- Elimination of most protozoan parasites like Giardia and Cryptosporidium
- Complete removal of helminth eggs and larvae
- Reduction of turbidity to below 1 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Unit)
- Flow rate of approximately 1-3 liters per hour for family-sized units
- Production of clear, odorless water with improved taste
- Effective filtration without electricity for 1-3 years before element replacement
- Removal of some heavy metals through adsorption processes
- Significant improvement in water quality from virtually any freshwater source
The most immediate visible result is the dramatic improvement in water clarity. However, the critical health benefits come from the significant reduction in disease-causing microorganisms, which cannot be seen but dramatically reduce the incidence of waterborne disease when these filters are consistently used.
Scientific Explanation
The ceramic water filter's effectiveness is grounded in well-established scientific principles:
Microstructure and Filtration Physics
The ceramic filter's effectiveness follows precise physical principles:
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Controlled Porosity Development: Scientific analysis reveals the mechanisms behind the filter's function:
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During firing, combustible materials oxidize completely between 350-700°C, creating void spaces
- Clay particles partially vitrify at 900°C, forming solid bridges between particles while maintaining pore networks
- Resulting pore size distribution typically ranges from 0.1-10 microns with a median of approximately 2-3 microns
- Total porosity reaches 40-60% of volume depending on burnout material concentration
- Scanning electron microscopy studies show interconnected pore networks with tortuous pathways
These microstructural characteristics explain why specific combustible material concentrations and particle sizes are recommended, as they directly determine the critical pore structure.
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Darcy's Law and Flow Dynamics: The filter's flow performance follows established fluid dynamics:
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Flow rate (Q) follows Q = KA(ΔP/μL), where K is permeability, A is surface area, ΔP is pressure difference, μ is viscosity, and L is thickness
- Hydraulic conductivity typically measures 10⁻⁶ to 10⁻⁸ m/s in properly made filters
- Flow decreases logarithmically with increasing water column height as the filter operates
- Surface filtration predominates initially, transitioning to depth filtration as surface pores become partially blocked
- Reynolds numbers remain well below 1, ensuring laminar flow throughout the filter
These hydraulic principles explain why pot-shaped filters (with greater surface area) typically outperform disk filters of similar thickness and material composition.
Antimicrobial Mechanisms
Scientific research confirms multiple disinfection processes occurring simultaneously:
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Silver Ion Disinfection Physics: Silver enhances pathogen reduction through several mechanisms:
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Ionic silver (Ag⁺) binds to thiol groups in vital enzymes, disrupting cellular respiration and reproduction
- Silver creates destructive oxidative stress in microbial cells through ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species) generation
- Typical silver concentrations in filtered water range from 0.01-0.05 mg/L, providing residual disinfection
- Silver demonstrates oligodynamic effect—antimicrobial activity at extremely low concentrations
- Laboratory studies show 2-4 log (99-99.99%) additional reduction in bacteria with silver treatment versus untreated ceramic
These antimicrobial principles explain why silver treatment significantly enhances filter performance and provides residual protection.
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Pathogen Removal Efficiency Analysis: Scientific testing demonstrates removal mechanisms:
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Removal efficiencies follow: bacteria (99-99.9%), protozoa (>99.9%), helminths (>99.99%)
- Virus removal is significantly lower (50-95%) due to their smaller size (0.02-0.3 microns)
- Turbidity reduction typically exceeds 95% from most source waters
- Laboratory challenge tests with high concentrations of E. coli (10⁵-10⁶ CFU/100mL) still produce safe output water
- Field studies in multiple countries demonstrate 63-82% reduction in diarrheal disease incidence among consistent users
These microbiological principles explain the ceramic filter's effectiveness against diverse pathogens and why multiple barriers (physical straining plus silver disinfection) provide superior performance to either mechanism alone.
Material Science Applications
The physical and chemical properties of materials determine filter performance:
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Ceramic Properties Optimization: Scientific analysis shows how material selection affects function:
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Clay mineral composition affects plasticity, green strength, and fired properties
- Kaolinite-rich clays typically produce more durable filters than montmorillonite-rich clays
- Firing atmosphere (oxidizing vs. reducing) influences ceramic microstructure and strength
- Material shrinkage during drying and firing typically ranges from 5-15%
- Mechanical strength correlates with firing temperature, with optimal range between 900-950°C
These material science principles explain why specific firing schedules and clay preparations are recommended, and why local adaptation of formulations may be necessary.
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Adsorption Chemistry: Research shows specific chemical interactions enhancing filtration:
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Clay surfaces typically carry negative charges, attracting positively charged contaminants
- Zeta potential measurements show surface charge between -15 and -30 mV for most ceramic filters
- Silver ions bind to clay through cation exchange capacity (CEC) mechanisms
- Adsorption follows Freundlich isotherm models for many contaminants
- Heavy metal removal occurs primarily through adsorption rather than size exclusion
These physico-chemical principles explain the filter's ability to remove certain dissolved contaminants despite pore sizes larger than the dissolved molecules and why material selection impacts performance beyond simple physical straining.
Alternative Methods
Commercial Ceramic Filter Elements
For those seeking greater consistency with less fabrication effort: 1. Purchase commercially manufactured ceramic candle filters 2. Install in a similar two-bucket system 3. Clean and maintain as with homemade elements 4. Typically provides more consistent flow rates and filtration 5. Higher initial cost but less production time 6. Usually includes silver or other treatments pre-applied 7. Often includes activated carbon core for additional chemical filtration
Clay Pot Refrigeration System (Zeer Pot)
For a complementary technology using similar materials: 1. Create nested clay pots with sand between them 2. Keep sand moist to promote evaporative cooling 3. Store filtered water in the inner pot for cooling 4. Can reduce water temperature by 10-20°F 5. Works best in low-humidity environments 6. Provides no filtration but complements water treatment 7. Extends shelf-life of filtered water and improves palatability
Activated Carbon Enhancement
For improved taste and chemical removal: 1. Add a layer of granular activated carbon beneath ceramic filter 2. Prepare carbon by crushing charcoal and activating with salt solution and heat 3. Rinse thoroughly before use 4. Enhances removal of chlorine, volatile organic compounds, and some pesticides 5. Improves taste and odor significantly 6. Requires replacement every 2-3 months 7. May harbor bacteria if not regularly replaced
Multi-Stage Bucket System
For comprehensive water treatment: 1. Create a three-bucket stacked system 2. Top bucket: sedimentation and pre-filtration with cloth 3. Middle bucket: ceramic filtration 4. Bottom bucket: safe storage with spigot 5. Allows treatment of very turbid water sources 6. Higher capacity but more complex construction 7. Particularly effective for community-scale implementation
Safety Information
Water Quality and Health Guidelines
- Proper Water Testing and Quality Assessment:
- While ceramic filters effectively remove bacteria and parasites, they are less effective against viruses
- In areas with known viral contamination, consider additional treatment (SODIS, chlorination) or virus-specific filters
- Periodically verify filter performance using field test kits for E. coli or total coliforms when possible
- Ceramic filters do not remove dissolved chemicals, pesticides, or fertilizers effectively
- Water with industrial or agricultural contamination may require additional treatment
- If water has unusual color, odor, or taste after filtering, it may contain contaminants not removed by ceramic filtration
- Regular testing of both source and filtered water helps identify changes in water quality or filter performance
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Filters perform best with regular, consistent use rather than intermittent operation
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Safe Handling and Consumption Practices:
- Always wash hands before handling the filter or filtered water
- Keep the filtration system away from contaminants like animal waste or chemicals
- Store filtered water in clean, covered containers
- Regularly clean the collection container with diluted bleach solution (1 tablespoon per gallon)
- If water is stored more than 24 hours after filtration, consider adding a small amount of chlorine (1 drop per gallon) for residual protection
- Develop a household water safety plan including regular filter maintenance
- Never return unused filtered water to the filter input
- If a household member develops waterborne illness despite filter use, inspect the system for cracks or bypassing
- Children under 5, elderly individuals, pregnant women, and immunocompromised persons may need additional water treatment precautions
- Consider a multi-barrier approach (combining methods) for highest safety in high-risk areas
Material Safety Considerations
- Clay and Ceramic Handling Safety:
- Wear dust masks when working with dry clay or filter materials
- Some clays may contain natural contaminants (lead, arsenic); when possible, use tested clay sources or perform leaching tests on finished filters
- Avoid using unknown salvaged materials as combustibles; commercial sawdust from treated wood can introduce toxins
- Silver solutions can stain skin and materials; wear protective gloves when applying
- Silver concentrations used in filters are safe for humans but should be kept away from aquatic environments
- Thoroughly wash all food-grade containers before repurposing for filter construction
- When firing filters, ensure adequate ventilation as organic materials burn off
- Allow fired filters to cool completely before handling to prevent thermal burns
- Ceramic dust from cleaning or manufacturing may cause silicosis with long-term exposure; always wet-clean filters
- Discard any filters with visible cracks, as these provide channels for unfiltered water
By following these scientifically-based principles and safety guidelines, your ceramic water filter will provide reliable, high-quality drinking water while demonstrating an elegant application of appropriate technology in addressing one of humanity's most fundamental needs.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the Filter Material Mixture
The proper ratio of materials is critical for filter effectiveness. Start with dry terracotta or pottery clay, crushing and removing any stones or impurities. Sift the clay through a fine mesh screen (100 mesh or finer) to remove larger particles. Separately, prepare your combustible material - either fine sawdust, rice husks, or coffee grounds - by washing it thoroughly and allowing it to dry completely. The combustible material must be sifted to a uniform size (between 0.5-1mm) for optimal results. Weigh your materials to create a mixture of 60-70% clay and 30-40% combustible material by weight (e.g., 3 pounds clay to 1.5 pounds sawdust). The exact ratio may need adjustment based on your local clay properties. Add 5-10% fine sand by weight to improve filter strength. Combine the dry materials thoroughly, mixing for at least 15 minutes to ensure even distribution. Document your exact proportions for future reference, as successful ratios may vary based on local materials. The combustible material will burn away during firing, creating a network of micropores that are key to the filter's effectiveness.
Step 2: Mix and Prepare the Clay
Create a workspace with a clean, flat surface covered with plastic sheeting. Gradually add clean water to your dry mixture, incorporating it slowly until the clay reaches a workable consistency similar to modeling clay - firm but pliable, not sticky or crumbly. Too much water will make the clay difficult to work with, while too little will result in cracks during drying. Typically, you'll need approximately 1 part water to 2-3 parts dry mixture by volume, but this varies with humidity and clay type. Once mixed, knead the clay thoroughly for 15-20 minutes to remove air bubbles and ensure consistent moisture distribution throughout. The kneading process is crucial for creating a homogeneous material that will fire evenly. After kneading, form the clay into a ball and let it rest covered with damp cloth or plastic for 12-24 hours. This "aging" process allows moisture to distribute evenly and improves clay plasticity. After resting, knead the clay again briefly before shaping. If the clay feels too wet after resting, leave it uncovered for a few hours to reach optimal consistency.
Step 3: Shape the Filter Element
Two primary methods exist for shaping ceramic filters - the pot method and the disk method. For the pot method, which is more common and typically more effective, you'll shape the clay into a flower pot form approximately 6-8 inches in diameter and 6-8 inches tall with walls about 1/2 inch thick. If you have pottery experience, you can throw the pot on a wheel. For those without pottery experience, use the press-mold technique - create or obtain a mold (two nested buckets with sand between them can work), and press the clay into the space between the molds to form an even pot shape. Remove excess clay by trimming the rim with a knife or wire. For the disk method, roll your clay to a consistent 1/2 inch thickness using guide sticks and a rolling pin, then cut circular disks approximately 6-7 inches in diameter. Whatever shape you choose, handle the wet clay carefully and ensure even thickness throughout. Include a slightly thicker bottom for structural integrity. Allow the shaped filter to firm up slightly before proceeding to the next step. This initial firming usually takes 1-2 hours, depending on ambient humidity.
Step 4: Dry the Filter Completely
Proper drying prevents cracking during firing. Place your shaped filter in a shaded, room-temperature location with good air circulation, but away from direct sunlight or heat sources which can cause uneven drying and cracking. Cover the filter loosely with plastic, creating a tent that allows some air circulation while slowing evaporation. For the first 24-48 hours, maintain high humidity under the plastic by occasionally misting with water or placing a small container of water nearby. This slow initial drying is crucial for preventing cracks. After the initial slow-drying period, gradually increase air exposure by opening the plastic more each day over a 3-5 day period. Once the clay has reached the "leather-hard" stage (no longer cool to touch and light gray in color), remove the plastic entirely. Complete drying will take approximately 7-14 days total, depending on climate conditions. The filter is ready for firing when it has turned a light color throughout, feels room temperature to touch, and produces a clear ringing sound when gently tapped. Never attempt to accelerate drying with heat, as this almost always results in cracking.
Step 5: Fire the Filter
Firing converts clay into ceramic and burns out the combustible material to create micropores. If using a kiln, place your completely dry filters with adequate spacing between pieces to allow for even heat distribution. Start with a slow temperature increase of about 100°C (212°F) per hour until reaching 350°C (662°F), then hold at this temperature for 1-2 hours to allow combustible materials to burn off gradually. Continue increasing temperature to approximately 900-950°C (1652-1742°F) for low-fire terracotta, maintaining this temperature for 1-2 hours. If using an open firing method (for those without kiln access), dig a shallow pit, create a bed of kindling, arrange the filters on top, and build a dome of fuel (wood) around them. Cover partially with metal sheets to retain heat while allowing smoke to escape. The firing should last 8-12 hours with gradually increasing intensity. Monitor the color - filters should ultimately reach a reddish-orange color indicating sufficient firing temperature. After firing, allow filters to cool slowly in the closed kiln or dying embers for at least 8-12 hours to prevent cracking from thermal shock. The firing process permanently transforms the clay into ceramic and creates the microporous structure as the combustible materials burn away.
Step 6: Apply Colloidal Silver Treatment
Colloidal silver significantly enhances the antimicrobial effectiveness of ceramic filters. Once filters have completely cooled after firing, prepare a 100ppm colloidal silver solution following manufacturer directions (if using concentrated silver) or use pre-prepared colloidal silver. If using silver nitrate, prepare a 0.5% solution by dissolving silver nitrate in distilled water (approximately 5g per liter). Completely submerge the ceramic filter elements in the silver solution for 2-3 minutes, ensuring all surfaces are contacted. For pot-shaped filters, fill the inside and submerge the outside. For disk filters, ensure both sides are treated evenly. Remove filters and place them on a clean, non-absorbent surface to dry completely for 24-48 hours. Do not rinse after silver treatment. The silver creates an additional antimicrobial barrier that inhibits bacterial growth on the filter surface and enhances pathogen removal. Handled properly, the silver treatment is completely safe for drinking water applications at these concentrations. The silver treatment should be renewed annually for optimal effectiveness. Store any unused silver solution in a dark container away from light to prevent degradation. Always wear gloves when handling silver solutions to prevent skin staining.
Step 7: Prepare the Collection and Filtration System
For pot-shaped filters, prepare a clean 5-gallon food-grade plastic bucket with lid to serve as your housing and collection unit. Drill a 1/2" hole approximately 2 inches from the bottom of the bucket for the spigot. Install the spigot with washers on both sides of the bucket wall and tighten securely. Apply food-grade silicone sealant around the spigot connection both inside and outside to ensure a watertight seal. Allow sealant to cure for 24 hours before use. For disk-shaped filters, prepare two buckets - one with a hole and spigot as described above, and another with its bottom removed to hold the disk filter. The disk will be placed between these buckets with a gasket seal. For either design, clean all components thoroughly with soap and water, then rinse well. Allow all parts to dry completely before assembly. If desired, you can mark measurement lines on the outside of the collection bucket to track filtered water volume. Create a stable base for your filter system by placing it on a small table or stand that allows easy access to the spigot for filling containers. The height should allow comfortable placement of a water container beneath the spigot.
Step 8: Assemble the Complete Filter Unit
For pot filters, simply place the ceramic filter element inside the prepared collection bucket, resting on the bucket's rim. The filter should fit securely with its rim resting on the bucket edge, preventing unfiltered water from bypassing the ceramic element. For disk filters, sandwich the ceramic disk between the two buckets, using flexible gaskets (rubber or silicone rings) on both sides of the disk to create a watertight seal. Secure the buckets together with clips, rope, or by using threaded bucket designs specifically made for filter systems. Place the assembled filter system in its designated location - ideally on a stable, easy-to-clean surface at a convenient height for both adding source water and collecting filtered water. If using in areas with disease-carrying insects, cover any openings with fine mesh screen to prevent insect access while allowing air flow. For additional protection and improved aesthetics, you may construct a simple wooden stand or housing for the complete filter unit. The stand should be stable enough to support the filter system when full (approximately 40-50 pounds) and allow easy access to the spigot.
Step 9: Test and Prepare the Filter for Use
Before using your filter for drinking water, it must be thoroughly tested for both flow rate and integrity. Fill the filter with clean water and observe the flow rate, which should be between 1-3 liters per hour for pot-style filters or disk filters of typical dimensions. If flow is significantly faster, the filter may have cracks or insufficient porosity. If flow is too slow, the walls may be too thick or the pore structure too dense. Next, perform a simple integrity test - add water mixed with food coloring to the filter and observe the filtered output. The filtered water should be clear with no visible color, indicating proper micropore formation. Discard the first 3-5 fillings of filtered water, as these may contain ceramic particles or residual material from manufacturing. This initial flushing typically takes 2-3 days of operation. Once testing is complete, the filter is ready for regular use. Add source water to the ceramic element as needed, never letting it dry out completely between uses. Always keep the collection container clean and sanitize it weekly with diluted bleach solution (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) followed by thorough rinsing. Remember that ceramic filters remove bacteria, parasites, and sediment effectively but may not remove all viruses or chemical contaminants.
Step 10: Maintain and Clean the Filter Regularly
Proper maintenance ensures long-term effectiveness and longevity. As water passes through the ceramic filter, captured particles gradually accumulate on the surface, slowing the flow rate. When you notice significant flow reduction (typically every 2-4 weeks depending on water turbidity), clean the filter by gently scrubbing the surface with a clean, soft brush (never soap) using filtered water. For pot filters, clean both inside and outside surfaces. For disk filters, clean both faces. Scrub with light pressure using a circular motion until the ceramic surface appears renewed. Over time (typically 1-3 years depending on water quality and usage), the ceramic will become thin from repeated cleaning. Replace the ceramic element when it becomes less than 1/4 inch thick at any point or if cracks develop. Clean the collection bucket and spigot monthly using diluted bleach solution (1 tablespoon per gallon), then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Reapply silver treatment annually by following the original application procedure. Never let the filter freeze, as this can cause cracking of the ceramic element. If not in use for extended periods, keep a small amount of water in the ceramic element to prevent complete drying, which can reduce effectiveness. When restarting after extended non-use, clean thoroughly and discard the first batch of filtered water.
Project Details
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Category: Water Harvesting and Purification
- Published: 2025-03-31
Tools Needed
- Kiln or open fire pit with temperature control
- Mortar and pestle or grinding tool
- Mixing containers (plastic buckets)
- Measuring cups and scale
- Fine-mesh sieve (100 mesh or finer)
- Pottery throwing tools or filter press mold
- Plastic sheets for clay drying
- Wooden rolling pin
- Drying rack
- Safety gloves and dust mask
- Thermometer for kiln temperature (optional)
Materials Required
- Terracotta clay or local pottery clay (4-5 pounds)
- Fine sawdust, rice husks, or coffee grounds (2-3 pounds)
- Fine sand (1 pound)
- Colloidal silver solution (100ppm, 250ml) or silver nitrate
- Food-grade plastic bucket with lid (5-gallon)
- Plastic or brass spigot with washers and nut
- Food-grade silicone sealant
- Cheesecloth or cotton fabric
- Clean water for mixing
- Drill with 1/2" bit (for spigot installation)
Disclaimer: This homesteading project provides general information for educational and entertainment purposes only. Practices may vary and the project steps and details may not be fully accurate. Specific emergency situations may require different approaches. Always consult with local emergency management officials for guidance relevant to your area.